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Mt Buffalo 2016 Aid Festival w/end of 26-27 Nov. 2-Dec-2016 At 1:27:17 PM PeterW
Thanks for the explanation. I have a lot more sympathy than you might expect. (Given my own reasons for bailing in the past.)

Re jugging on a single line. In my mid-20's when I was actually climbing aid routes and doing lots of jugging, I would have wondered what you were on about. As I've got older (and wiser?), I know I'm a lot more suspicious about stuff I wouldn't have thought twice about in the past.

But having said that, I have to say that I see no theoretical problem with single line jugging. You trust the rope (that could lift a car) to save your life in a dynamic fall - it should easily be able to hold you in a static environment! If the rope's clean and you pay attention when clipping them in, two Jumars should be plenty. The odds of both failing would be astronomical!

I see really only two possible issues. You have to trust your that your partners have tied the rope on safely, and you have to trust that the rope won't get cut. I'd say the latter is again vanishingly unlikely with modern ropes on well known routes. (It might be different with fixed ropes used for days/weeks on alpine routes.)

One final thought. Never mind the Mt Buffalo north wall, think about all the thousands of metres of jugging that's done on El Cap each season!

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