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Tassie Blitz Part 2: The Moai, The Candlestick 15-Apr-2015 At 11:25:04 AM gfdonc

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On 15/04/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>I am still trying to get my head around that, as I would have thought
>it easier to re-rig before last person leaves Candlestick so that the lower
>out line becomes the retrieval line of the tryo rope, ... thus only one
>pull-retrieval required?

.. & I'm trying to get my head around how you might do it with only one pull.

The void is 40m across so you need to tie two ropes together to retrieve them (no different to a 40m abseil).
But the added complication of this one is that the tyro loses about 10-15m of height.

The way gravity works you lose this height in the first third of the tyro.
Hence you effectively need to abseil the first 15m then tyro across.

The catch is that you don't want to try and put your abseil device on the tyro ropes - the little bit of tension in the system means you wouldn't be able to move.
Hence you need a second pair of ropes.
We could have alternatively rapped off one rope (doubled) and then unclipped it once you started to move horizontally but instead opted to belay/lower the climber for the first 15m, hence the second pair of ropes.
Hope that explains it - else wait for Mikl to draw you some diagram.

The scary option of course, would just be to let go from the top and hope (a) your momentum vs friction ratio wasn't high enough for you to smack into the opposite wall and/or (b) the heat build up on a screw-gate wouldn't melt the rope when you stopped.

We took the safer option.