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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Albino bungonia 24-Aug-2009 At 8:50:22 AM mikl law

Message

I last walked into the gorge on 1974, and vowed I would never walk back out again. By the time I got to the first bolt on P1 I was thinking of walking out again. P1 is a nice overhung sharp layback, the few meters of slime coming out weren't too bad, and with maybe 6 cams and hexes (they'd work a lot better) in the hand to fist range I'd have enjoyed it more, rather than the 2 we had. - 0 stars
P2 - ok slab Up, across miles and down - 1 star
p3 down and right 20m , through trees, three routes move up vertically from this route, down a bit further to hidden bolt, up onto wet breaking stuff in ankle breaking position , gear then finally a few moves of climbing past another bolt. The description to this pitch is crap so here's a picture.

p4 good climbing desperate start 24 1star
by this time your feet will hurt so badly that you don't really want to be on a slab any more
p5 good 24 1star
p6 good 24 2stars + double ropes
p7 ok but it's obvious to keep going up corner on left till you run out of rope 0 stars
Hill to top = -5 stars
The route could get 1 star, the bolting is wierd but solid (the limestone seems to stop mild steel dynabolts from rusting). It makes one appreciate the Blueys