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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Easy Araps Classics that require Nuts ;) 17-Jul-2009 At 7:09:06 AM adrian

Message

On 16/07/2009 rolsen1 wrote:
>Would the top pitch of D Minor go just on wires?
>
>Also I imagine the traverse on the Bard might be scary on just wires (and
>hexes) although I think you can get some over the top if you're determined.
>
>I'd be tempted to add at least a couple of mid range cams to my rack.
>Most people at the grade would want a 4 camlalot on the watchtower crack.
>Something like Vulcan's top pitch possibly/probably also needs cam. Only
>done lamplighter once and a few years ago but its top pitch probably needs
>a largish cam as well. The golden echo probably needs cams?? Skink probably
>needs cams as well to stay sane.

Yep, top pitch of D minor is fine on just wires (although it doesn't fit with the sub-13 mentioned). If you do this, make sure you place nuts high overhead before you pull through each bulge to make sure you don't hit the ledge if you fall - plenty of places to put them.

I don't feel you need cams for lamplighter, bu;t again it's outside that sub-13 range. Top pitch is fine with the biggest hex you can get your hands on, and maybe the next size down if you're feeling nervous (which is understandable on that pitch!).