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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	The Organ Pipes	(General)	Organ Pipes Gully	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Iron Void - some beta please 18-May-2009 At 8:25:38 PM Dave J

Message

I cant remember if the very start was protected or if you re relying on your belayer for that bit
(definitely put an anchor in for the belay).

Not too hard off the deck...then you go left fiddle some small wires in from an awkward position then
do the tricky few moves up off them to a break where it eases off dramatically and you can get gear
in. When I got to this point my belayer asked me if the gear I placed was good and when I said it was
he said that he was pleased about that because all my other gear had fallen out already ... so I was
possibly unprotected for most of the climbing. I think technicaly the climbing is not hard for the grade
(maybe only 22) but to hang around and make sure you have put the gear in well in the middle of the
crux you would probably want to be comfortable at that grade (like I wasnt when I did it). The gear is
there but its strenuous to place it well and I didnt have the oomph to hang around and place it well.
Also the way the ropes pull on it might tend to lift them out once you've moved up past them.

Just nearby is Finger Prince, probably harder climbing wise but better protected (and a better route).
Maybe do this one first and if its ok then you'll be fine on Iron Void.