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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Central Mt Rosea (General) [ Rosea Guide | Images ] 

Topic Date User
Rosea ACA Guide 18-Jan-2009 At 6:41:34 PM armstp
Message
I climbed Speculation just a week or so ago Kieran. I remember doing the first 2 pitches with you and Jerry Maddox back in about 1979 so it only took me 30 years to get round to finishing the ascent! And you havenít even managed that obviously! The variant start at 15 [just to the L of Heretic P1] is worth doing to make the route independent. The description of Speculation above the 2nd pitch is hopeless. P3 is given as grade 11 but none of the corners directly above where you reach the ledge is any thing like that easy. I climbed one groove above a large block on the ledge at about 14/15. I think you would need to go to the RH end of the ledge [traverse 5m R] to find an easy blocky groove. I will email you a copy of the topo photo with the upper sections marked and a suggested description including the grade 15 variant finish which whilst not particularly good is more worthwhile than the original as with the variant start it gives 4 consistent pitches of 15. I havenít done any of the routes around Solitude but did climb the Never Ending Story recently. I will mark that in too.

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