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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
International	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

North Island NZ 17-Dec-2008 At 11:00:52 AM NZclimber

Message

Hi Wombly,
I'm from Nth Island so I know a few places to go.
They're mostly central but thats still a short drive from any coast in the island.
You would want to check out Wharepapa South, there's a climbing hostal there also for accomodation.
Have a camp out Whanganui Bay (which is my favourite) on the shore of Lake Taupo.
These are the two main spots in the Nth Island, a lot of smaller crags scattered around but these are the most centralised and with the most climbs.
Almost all sport climbing so you won't have a carry a mahsive rack if your travelling light.
I lived in Taupo and these plus loads of smaller crags were within 1hr max drive from there if you wanna base there for a few days. My after work crag was Kinlock, bout 15min drive from Taupo. Can do the hike out to Kawakawa Bay from there too 1.5-2hrs walk, really beautiful spot. Check out Reparoa crag if you do go to Taupo, was just being developed when I left, with some fun lines.
If you want to boulder, I guess Waitomo would be the best spot to try in Nth Island.

www.freeclimb.co.nz
It has topos and good directions to most of the Nth Island crags, except for Whanganui Bay- you need to buy the book, Whanganui Rock.

Hope this helps, have fun!