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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side North Wall [ Gorge Guide ] 

Topic Date User
Ozymandias Rebolt 15-Nov-2008 At 10:29:42 AM Lee C
Message
Sorry, have to agree with WM and Macciza.

I can't stand seeing fixed hangers down there, the recent bit of work on Ozy and Lord Gumtree, like
WM said is totally unnecessary at least two of these mega belays are next to bomber crack
placements not to mention they can both easily be passed by linking pitch's with a 60m rope.

Yosemite is great but the fixed hangers everywhere suck. The north Wall has a great feel that you
don't get over there we should keep it that way.

If the bolt ladder needed a rebolt then sure maybe it does but fixed hangers would and already do
make ozy a little less ozy.

SS carrots imo should be the very most that anything ever gets rebolted with.

It just makes me think, Why? are carrots too much of a pain? well probably less of a pain than multiple
days rebolting, are they too slow when trying to break a speed record? well if the record is set using
bolt plates then thats the way it would need to be broken.
I reckon macca might be right, it is more to do with that 15mins??

If the bolt ladder needs to be done then good on you go do it, to keep it operational and in the original
flavour of the route, that is a service. To change that flavour is a disservice, one thats already been
made and would be great to see be rectified.
Its easy to go overboard when people do these things. If you want to revolutionize something then do
it in a way that doesn't impact others, Maybe ozy could be soloed naked with 2 suction cups.


There are 29 replies to this topic.

 

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