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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Northern	Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre	Taipan Wall	[ Taipan Images ]

Topic Date User

Feather Boa 28 9-Nov-2004 At 9:11:13 PM Jonesy

Message

From memory there are two bolted routes left of Feather Boa - one of which takes the orange
arete just above the roof of FB (and shares the start & crux) - the left most route is a completely
independent one that H bolted after he did Mirage and to quote Dave "thought he could dyno the
height of the crag". Both are incredible.

FB itself is an amazing route (my favourite on the wall) - its everything a route should be - hard,
commiting and very funky - it took me 5 days, with a couple of tries each day and a fall from the
very very last move. I thought it was much harder than Anaconda and Cardigan St both of which
are in similar positions. The Crux on FB took me 3 visits to work out and invovled palming a
rooflet rocking over and then falling backwards onto a sloper at full extension.

Julian's project is the ridiculously hard scooped orange streak immediately left of Medusa top
pitch (which inicidentally has lost a hold and is now in need of some Gordy magic).

You've got to admire a line on Taipan that you can see from Araps on a clear day.....