>Buffalo: avoid the upper plateau (Horn/Castle/Hump/Cathedral) any time after 10am.
I don't agree. Horn/Cathedral/Castle are 400m+ higher than the Gorge = cooler temps and more breeze. You definitely need sunscreen but it rarely gets too hot IMO, even in full sun. Plus the Cathedral and the Castle get afternoon shade, and the Hump has morning shade.
>Camels Hump ... Omega is probably out of the question on a hot and suuny day.
I don't agree with this either... Omega is shady (and packed!) on hot days.
At Araps - the whole Central Gully Right Side, especially breezy crags up high (Back of the Bluffs etc)