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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Introductory climbs at the grade at Buffalo 11-Dec-2007 At 8:02:00 AM jgoding

Message

Hi,

Thanks all for the comments re Pintle LHV - I'll try the caving expedition next time I do it, and have a better look for gear at the belay, and save a large friend.

Re "Big Fun" I also got that big cam in and thought it was an excellent grade 15. Definitely makes you work for the tick though - the slab is tricky!

Back on topic...

I also think Silk & Satin looks excellent at 21, Bannisters rush is awesome climbing with amanzing, pants filling exposure (easily top roped which is a good introduction to the Nth Wall - not everyone is a super hard man!).

The other moderate routes which are very good are not on your list:
The Hump:
Chickens in Choppers (19**)
Cows with Guns (20**)
Run Free with the Buffalo (19**)
all of which are well bolted.

At The Cathedral "Shell Shock" (19*) and "Fire in the Foothills" (19*) are both good climbing, and with the 1st ascentionist's consent I've added 2 more bolts to "Shell Shock" making it much more sane (it only had 1 at one stage - jeez!).

I've also heard (but not done) good things about "Something is drooling under the bed" and "Bloodnok" which you can rap in to from the big ledge where Maharajah etc is

James - do you think we should install a set of steps for the start of "The Biggest thing here"? I agree the start is much harder (unfortunate really as we were hoping the whole thing might be pretty cruisy). Have you tried "Waiting for a princess"? I agree it's now more like 18/19 and a lot less like 20 as it's cleaned up well with a lot of traffic. I reckon the first time (when it was not as clean) it felt like 20 though!

I really didn't like "They Dance Alone". I remember it now (having checked the guide) and remember getting smashed on it and having a minor epic. I was also climbing ok at the time from memory.

There is a good 3 pitch grade 15 at Nug Nug which is well protected and worth a star I reckon called "Crystal Dancer". There will also be a lot more good moderate climbing here is anyone can be bothered putting in the effort and cash required to develop the area. I've got plans to push a route up and right onto the lovely clean slabs above which should produce at least 2-3 more good pitches of climbing, and maybe a little harder (16-18ish I think having rapped over it).