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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Introductory climbs at the grade at Buffalo 9-Dec-2007 At 7:41:33 PM JamesMc

Message

Joe,
You've got the descent from Pintle Direct wrong. You don't scramble down RIGHT; you scramble down LEFT, then squeeze through the chimney underneath. Otherwise do what we did yesterday, just clip in to the rap rope and swing.

Found Big Fun a bit scary between the 3rd & 4 bolts. Repeated German Beer Drinking Favorites for the fist time. Still think it's well protected. There's not quite 2 metres between runners at the top, but the climbing is much easier than below. I felt much more comfortable leading this than I was leading the top pitch of The Pintle. Perhaps GBDF is overgraded at 13. I was climbing significantly higher grades at the time, so I probably just took a guess at grading, and tried to be generous to avoid undergrading. Can't remember.

Also did The Biggest Thing Here gr 16. Found the start extremely difficult and unpleasant. Ended up aiding it. Once off the ground, the climb was excellent.

JamesMc