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Crag & Route Beta

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Valerie, Frenchmans Cap 27-Nov-2007 At 9:38:28 PM nerm

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FYI Phils description, from the 81 guide
http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Frenchmans+Cap

Valerie 390m 16M4
The line marked in Figs 2 and 3 is largely guesswork. The route has probably had only one ascent. Four artificial pitches and a waterfall pitch give this fine route an alpine flavour. It is a long, serious expedition, perhaps more demanding than the overall grade would indicate.
Start: This climb largely follows the major line just left of the Sydney Route, and starts as for that climb.
(1) 36m (8) Climb a series of vegetated corners to a slanting ledge and bollard belay.
(2) 21m (8) Traverse 6m left and up to a belay beneath an overhanging wall.
(3) 36m (13) Move down and left on to the wall and continue up this to a belay on top of a huge block.
(4) 27m (8) Traverse 6m left along a good ledge, then climb diagonally up to a belay below and to the left of a waterfall.
(5) 33m (15) Climb diagonally right and across the waterfall to a belay on a good ledge. Protection -nuts and two pitons.
(6) 24m (14) Traverse back left for 6m, then move up (bollard runner); then down again, re-crossing the waterfall to belay beneath some huge, loose blocks, on a good ledge.
(7) 36m (15M4) Free climb the waterfall for 15m, then move into "artificial" for another 15m (all on jams) - then 6m of free climbing to a small ledge which is very wet and unpleasant.
(8) 24m (16M2) Three pieces of aid to a very hard and greasy free finish on to a good ledge under a 2m roof
(9) 36m (15) Traverse out right for 3m then up for another 9m to a diagonal traverse line to the right. Follow this until it leads in above the crack and then continue up the V chimney to a reasonable belay.
(10) 27m (11) Continue up the "V" chimney until about 9m below the big overhang, and belay in the chimney.
(11) 30m (14) Traverse out right and then diagonally up to a ledge and piton belay.
(12) 36m (14) Climb straight up a series of corners and sleep walls to a good ledge and belay beneath a chimney.
(13) 27m (14M1) Climb the chimney until it suddenly narrows and use three pieces of aid to a small ledge and nut belay.
(14) 24m (14M1) Climb the crack above with two items of aid and belay back from the cliff on a pile of rubble.
First ascent C. Dewhirst, J. Ewbank. J. Moore, P. Stranger 16 Feb 1968

Have fun, I like the description of pitch 7