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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Northern	Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre	Taipan Wall	[ Taipan Images ]

Topic Date User

Rap anchors on Taipan 21-Sep-2007 At 1:45:43 PM WM

Message

On 18/09/2007 Organ Pipe wrote:
>Just curious about rap anchors along the top of Taipan wall, and distances
>from them to ground (as in are there any 2 x 50m rope opportunities, or
>will I need 2 x 60m).

2x50m is definitely enough for The Clean Sweep anchor. Traversing along the top of Taipan from 7th Pillar to Clean Sweep gives me the heeby jeebies so take care. In particular the red line in this picture is grade 8-ish soloing on dodgy grey stapytlon bollards on the lip of a 50m fall - the green line is better but you could still seriously stuff up (especially the bit above Father O) so take care.

>I assume that this part of the wall is too high for 2 x 60's.

actually a single strand 60m will reach the ground on stretch from anywhere on top of Taipan...but there are no anchors to rap off, so the Clean Sweep anchors are your main option. (I think the (new) Father O anchor is just below the lip so would be pretty scary to access from above). There is also new DRB at the end of the 3rd pitch of Seventh Pillar and 2x50m ropes will get you off from there though you'd miss out on the nice last pitch.

as for thermal cycling, I have also seen this in horizontal breaks on Taipan - a #0.5Fr resisted an hour of cleaning efforts in hot sun, but later came out easily in 2s in cool shade.