There's a bit of a funny story about Tobias (Wolf) onsighting that one (Intransience). He doesn't much like gear, so as usual happened not to take a lot with him. Upon getting through the first half he found himself crimping his way up the big black finishing headwall - about 10 metres out from his last piece when he shouted out to his belayer "I have no more gear - but I can hang around on des crimps all day - so no matter - I go!" - or something to that effect… Not surprisingly, he didn't recommend it either (as a well protected route).