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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Northwest	Camel's Hump	Western Cliffs	Omega Block	[ Camels Hump Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Omega Block Super Topo 14-Feb-2007 At 10:50:58 AM WM

Message

On 12/02/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>you have to do the hideous start to Broomstick though. We really need to glue a big fat gym hold on for that move.

It's not that bad you big softy.

On 12/02/2007 chalkischeap wrote:
>go straight up the arête instead – 3 move boulder problem. Has this part been climbed before? Wills new carrot replacement bolt may
>be useful here (application approved).

Nope - the carrot is out of reach from the hollow screams arete. But I'll take the approval anyway.

On 12/02/2007 dalai wrote:
>climbing it as the direct variant variant on Hollow screams is THE LINE!

It'd be more like a hollow screams direct variant upper left variant. Anyway, I'm sure Al reckons *the* line is hollow satan's broomstick bop with 4 belayers.

On 12/02/2007 nmonteith wrote:
> Just make sure you super camo the rings

Errr when I said "we" should salvage the line …. I sorta meant anyone other than myself! You could always take your drill tomorrow…. ;)

On 12/02/2007 cruze wrote:
>going to put the bolt above the warlock scoopy traverse so that it would be out of reach for warlock?

Correct - the proposed retrobolt would preferably be placed just above the lip of the bulge so that if warlock climbers were wussing out on the (excellent) traverse they would have to pull a 22 move, clip, and reverse the 22 move - which is highly unlikely on a 19.