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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Northwest	Camel's Hump	Western Cliffs	Omega Block	[ Camels Hump Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Omega Block Super Topo 12-Feb-2007 At 10:20:04 AM WM

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I toproped a right variant to Bewitched on the weekend - it takes the blue line in the topo below. After breaking right from the 3rd bolt of broomstick it's surprisingly independent all the way to the summit (note Broomstick moves slightly further left (green line) than Neil's topo shows). The blue line has been at least partially done before because it has a rusty old carrot on it (see the first yellow dot). Up higher is a rusty old pin (yellow dot) which might be for the original line but is also used by powder hound so maybe not. Does anyone know the origins of the blue line and carrot? Did broomstick originally go to the carrot before moving back left into the upper grooves?

Anyway, the climbing on it is really good (at least as good as broomstick and bewitched) and IMO it should definitely be "salvaged" so that we can have another trade route on the block. This would require replacing the carrot and pin, and maybe the carrot should be moved slightly lower because the block at the start of broomstick is almost coming into the equation if you blow that clip and wing onto broomstick's 3rd bolt. It'd almost certainly also need a retrobolt to protect the moves over the bulge just above Warlock's traverse, because they are quite tricky (23ish?) and 3-5m above the carrot (and there's no trad). And it needs it's own lower-off too. The headwall is not as mossy as it looks - it only needed about 30 seconds cleaning (without even a brush) for it to be climbable.

I assume the retrobolt and carrot re-position would need somebody's approval - or maybe a consensus here would be enough. Thoughts?

On 13/12/2005 Robin wrote:
>Also there were 2 bolts without brackets on bewitched - have they been replaced?

yep - all rings now

>15. Warlock - looking at the photo I think the traverse goes lower and more horizontal.

correct - currently it's shown as going diagonally up left over a little bulge before meeting broomstick but it traverses just below the bulge