We did New Year up there once years ago.... was really good. Much better than the oven - I mean Araps - at that time of year!! First thing in the morning was fine for the sunny routes (e.g. we did Denethor/Ivory Coast) - plus from memory Hermes-Fearon area and Integral Crack area got morning shade. Was also excellent up at Orroral - dappled shade on basically everything and routes on all sides of boulders so you can follow solid shade. Good memories of a hammock and cold beer from the esky in the arvos too.