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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Bolts at Buffalo 11-Feb-2019 At 7:33:04 AM bigchris

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On 11-Feb-2019 gfdonc wrote:
>On 10-Feb-2019 bigchris wrote:
>>So we went to do a re'retro' at Mackeys slab, but unfortunately it was....wet.
>I assume you're referring to the 'retro' by establishing a new route around
>Stiletto? I haven't done either of these so can't comment.

Geoff wanted to add a bolt to the first pitch of Spit and Polish and possibly wanted to chop a few off of Stiletto as it has gone from having almost zero bolts to having one every 3 meters.

Also it should be noted that the topo in the buffalo guide for Stiletto is incorrect. The line in the top pitch follows the curve of the flake to an old bolt (which is now redundant because you can put a green cam in) and then goes up the last 5 meters of spit and polish. I'll update it on The Crag when I get a moment as per Geoffs wishes. The last bolt is basically on a slab/rock which you can walk up with your hands in your pockets (yep).

>>We chopped four useless bolts off the top of the cathedral where there
>>are natural gear placements for anchors (near the top of bloodnok etc).
>I recall these being useful as the only nearby gear is large cams. I
>may have that wrong, it's been a while. Four though? I only remember
>two.

I took cams up to have a look to see what fits and there were many places for different size cams above the top from 0.5 to 4. All bolts were just single ones and its really easy to set up natural anchors. If you're really worried about setting up an anchor, you can put a piece in on a long runner and walk 3 metres to the 'Sunrunner' anchor which is super bomber.

>>We were going to chop and clean up the mess on pitch 3 of The Initiation,
>>but the weather set in.
>Can I clarify what this one is all about?
>Are we talking about the traverse pitch (which, the way I recommend, is
>pitch 2) or have some bolts been installed recently somewhere else? Only
>did this route about a year ago.

There is an old bolt next to a giant crack before the traverse, and there is an old mank bolt on the traverse basically right next to a new one so Geoff is going to remove that. Im not sure when that one was installed or who did it. The first time I did it (about a year ago also) I didn't even see the first bolt and put a yellow cam in right next to it (within 30cm).

The second bolt is an old aid bolt that was put in on lead on the middle of the traverse, but there is a shiny new machine bolt right next to it (also 30cm-ish away).

I also agree that the first two pitches should be climbed in one, and the traverse pitch should be called pitch 2 :D

We were also considering replacing the Rap bolts at the top with stainless steel ones and getting rid of the mank rusty ones, but thats not such a big deal as they still look ok.