On 10-Jan-2019 bigchris wrote:
>Before I say or mention anything, I'm reluctantly posting on here because
>I'm not entirely sure if anything is going to be gained from people arguing.
>I've spoken to M9 and to Claw in a string of emails, and they've both recommended
>that I type what's happened and what I've done.
>So I was climbing with Geoff Gledhill up at Buffalo last week. Doing a
>whole heap of fun and burly stuff. I met up with this dude from California
>who wanted to try and climb Typhon so I showed him how to get to it as
>even though its 100 metres from the carpark, its easy to get lost.
>The Californians and Geoff and I walked down to basically the entry point
>of Burstons Crevasse (kinda the intersection where you can turn left to
>go to Beowulf or scramble straight and go the the top of Angels Butress)
>only to find the walkway (the bit that you walk over the top of the dead
>tree) down to where you would look at Typhon, Caligula, Agrippa etc, sprayed
>with bolts and anchors.
>I went back to the car and grabbed my hammer and spanner and started to
>remove them all and punch most of them in, however the person that has
>drilled them hasn't drilled the holes deep enough. They're still somewhat
>hanging out of the ground. Yes the ground, on a slab which you can walk
>down. Geoff and I pulled about 3 sets of anchors out, and 4 hangers.
>Over at the Caligula top out, where I was showing the Californians how
>to climb through the hidden hole to get to the top of Typhon were also
>random bolts in walls. I pulled all of these out as well. They were not
>near any climbs and just in random spots kinda 5-6 meters back from the
>I also pulled the bolts out of the slackfline anchors at the top of Country
>Road and across to Wicked Solitaire. All 10 of them (except for one which
>is f---ed up) and none of the holes were deep enough to punch them through.
>I'll take the grinder up in a few weeks and grind these off, or figure
>out how to get them out somehow. Geoff and I hit every thread at the base
>of each bolt with a hammer so that they can't be reused. Geoff was fuming
>by this stage. I also installed a rap anchor at the top of Country Road
>about 8 months ago as the trees are starting to disappear making it a little
>sketchy of Tim Lockwood and I to get down there. They are hidden right
>over the edge where no-one can see them unless you are rappelling down.
>Rod and Claw have no issues with these and a multitude of people have used
>We climbed also at the Horn only to find that some gum nut has basically
>grid bolted Profanities (17) with bolts right next to perfect gear placements.
>Geoff and I will possibly chop some of these off. I think there is 10 or
>11 in total, when it needs 4-5 at the very most.
>The next day on the way to Angels, he ended up walking back out with my
>Canadian friend Mike, and they saw about 15 bolts on a flat piece of rock
>which you could walk on with your hands in your pockets and they pulled
>every one of those out too. If you are friends with Geoff on Facebook,
>you'll be able to see that Mike has tagged him in a Video where they are
>about to remove them all.
>Is it the Army? Is it a guide? Is it a Uni Club? I don't know. We walked
>away with pockets of brand new hardware and were kinda bummed out about
>it. I don't mind people putting in an anchor to save a death march or a
>dodgy descent, or where there is no natural gear to make an anchor, but
>I don't know what is happening here.
>In speaking with M9 and Claw, we've decided it best to leave the Slackline
>anchors that go across Crystal Brook as they're no near any climbs and
>have been responsibly installed and I think we have to share. I guess after
>I was accused of over-bolting a route earlier in 2017 (4 bolts over 25
>metres), I'm trying to do what's best for the future Buffalo users.
>I think that people should stay away if they're not ready to get rowdy
>in the wide and run out on the slabs.
>Let me know your thoughts.
This kind of indiscriminate bolting has huge negative potential, and we can now add another top shelf climbing area to the potentially endangered climbing access list.
Well done for removing what you could bro.