Yeah I can see your point. Creating a mass bolted loose cliff was always a weird concept to me.
I think the first ascentionists have not glued or pinned (at all I believe??), even on the loose horrors. Other routes are stunning, bulletproof rock with no loose holds. I respect the effort involved in bolting these things. Cleaning is something like a days work or more in some cases. I've had a good time climbing at this cliff, but am always very cautious of loose rock.
Maybe it would be best if the guidebook was clear on the choss vs. the great rock. Mark any choss with a hand warning sign?