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Crag & Route Beta

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Which rope to bring? 9-Aug-2017 At 2:21:11 PM Wendy

Message

On 8/08/2017 Justanotherdirtbag wrote:
>I'm planning to come to Oceania from Lake Tahoe in mid November and climb
>in Arapiles, Tasmania, New Zealand and the Blue Mountains. My current
>repertoire includes trad (single & multi pitch) up to 19/20 and sport up
>to 22. I was wondering which rope and what gear would be the most appropriate
>to bring for this trip. I'm not exactly pressed for time, and will probably
>want to climb all the classics within my ability range (which I will hopefully
>increase while I'm here).

I hope you are really not pressed for time as that would include a few thousand routes ...

>
>1 - I'm debating between bringing a single 70m, a single 60m or a pair
>of doubles. In the Tahoe/Eastern Sierra/Yosemite region, it's always nice
>to have a 70m single, but I don't want to bring that if you never need
>those extra 10 meters of weight in the areas I listed above.

Araps and the gramps have lots of stuff you can do on a single 60, however the doubles are pretty nice for a few raps and long trad pitches. I almost never need the extra 10m. Double 50s would be long enough. Bring 2 single rated 9mms and have the best of both worlds.

I would imagine there are a few rap ins in the Blueys that the doubles would be needed for as well? Someone else could clarify if you need more than a single 60 to get into Pierces Pass and the like.

>
>2 - Will I need to bother bringing any cams larger than a #3 BD Camalot?

If you pick your climbs you won't, but if you want to do ALL the classics, then yes. I'd def bring double fingers-hands size cams and double set wires.
>
>3 - Any tips/beta for being in any of those areas and climbing partners
>are also appreciated!

If you don't have a car or climbing partners, start at araps. It's really the only place you can get to easily, camp at the base of and be assured of other climbers in the country. You might find it difficult to leave though.