|On 10/07/2017 One Day Hero wrote:
>I was probably being overly negative there. Sorry Jackson, I'll try to
>be more agnostic about your existance.
>Really though, stu and wendy are peddling crap for someone who wants to
>redpoint sport routes. Wendy drops 6 grades when it comes to pulling on
>mingers. Meanwhile, back when stu was climbing hard via 'body tension and
>hip flexibility', he forgets to mention that he was probably 15kg lighter
>than he is now, and bouldering desperate V10s in the hole........but nah,
>finger strength didn't come into it!
I just don't pull on mingers cause my middle aged fingers don't like it anymore. Strangely enough, it was my forte in my 20s. You just had the misfortune to meet me after I had moved on to trenches.
Anyway, he was asking about araps, not hard sport routes (which you exagerate about, i still have a swag of 25ish ones in relatively recent history, i'm not dropping into the teens! That would however be what happens if you make me climb slabs). Araps is technical, challenging to read, involves a variety of techniques, has climbs of all sorts of styles, endurance is kinda useful and if you can place gear well, that might help too. Not to mention that I have no idea how people climb anything when they can't jam, that really does make everything easier.
and my argument is not about people focusing on that one soft tick, it is about actually becoming a better climber. Which i like to encourage people to do rather than focus on one soft tick. If I was going for a soft tick, I'd go for an overhanging jug fest which still won't need fingerboard training. Unless i was super tall any skinny, in which case, the vertical face would probably be easier still.