Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC All	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Victoria Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

What are most common grip types at Gramps/Araps? 7-Jul-2017 At 6:42:23 PM jacksonclimbs

Message

Thanks Wendy, I get where you're coming from, which is why I have done in the past and also do now, pretty much everything you mention. In my case, I can only get outdoors on the weekends, with work and other commitments, so a periodized training program that includes a hangboarding phase alongside core and other strength building exercises works best for me.

From what I've read, finger strength is accretive over time, and will eventually be the most limiting factor in your climbing, ergo. better to start building it early, for when eventually it becomes the most limiting factor in climbing. I've also read that strength gains occur in roughly 15 degrees of the joint angle trained, which is why some climbers specifically focus on hangboard training certain grip types they will need for their local crag - hence the original question.