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Topic Date User
What are most common grip types at Gramps/Araps? 7-Jul-2017 At 4:41:52 PM Wendy
Hand jams, fist jams, finger locks, arm bars and knee bars ...

Seriously, most climbers have no need to go finger board training. It's a bit of a give away that you are better at steep stuff. The weakness is in the technique, not the strength. Go climbing. Climb some more. Climb a variety of stuff. Have a cushy toprope on stuff out of your comfort zone and practice different techniques until they are no longer out of your comfortzone. Take a technique class. observe good climbers, how they move, how they place their feet, use their shoulders, milk rests, use body tension (there are a lot of bad climbers out there you might want to try not to observe too much). Build a repertoire of engrams that you can then recall under stress.

If you really want to build strength, do some core workouts. It's the bit most climbers are weakest in. When you are onsighting 25, I might concede some use in finger boards to advance further, but I'll mostly concede to them boredom and injury.

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