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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	The Organ Pipes	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Loose anchors on Conifer Crack 2-Jun-2017 At 4:40:39 PM The good Dr

Message

On 2/06/2017 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 2/06/2017 The good Dr wrote:
>>Actually, there is a way, but those without the knowledge should not
>comment
>>on things they know nothing about!
>
>Well how about you enlighten us? I reckon a $10 trubolt with a galled
>nut and the sleeve sliding in the hole probably belongs in the bin, but
>am interested in your solution.

Given the pic I reckon it is probably a galled nut. The solution is to hammer in a U shaped shim(s) between the washer and the bolt plate that forces the cone to locate correctly. These can be made from oversized washers with a notch cut out. These will also have the ability to have the ends turned up so it cannot fall out. Problem solved.

The reality is that removal and replacement is the best solution.