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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Loose anchors on Conifer Crack 2-Jun-2017 At 8:41:58 AM Wendy
On 1/06/2017 gfdonc wrote:
>On 1/06/2017 Wendy wrote:
>>Other than being
>>Gordy specials (galvanised and bolts straight through the chain, a crappy
>>set up),
>Crappy? Apart from the justifiable criticism of using galv, what's your
>point here?
The chain link is not a flush surface for tightening against. The bolt would need to be proportionately longer to accomodate the extra width of the chain and who know if they actually are. There is more leverage on the bolt for being the chains width out. Depending on the size of the bolt head, a washer may be a critical part of the system. THe next link of chain down is usually pushing out from the rock as a result of trying the get the top link flush. They are far from an ideal set up, but the galvanised bit is probably the worst of it. Really, who in their right mine places gal these days?

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