|On 21/04/2017 simey wrote:
>Wendy is right... if you like uninspiring looking, non-descript routes,
>then Garden Wall has some real gems.
I forgot how inspired I was by the descript appearence of Mohawk Hanky, Eeyore's Thistles, Constance Little and Bolero wall. I really should just follow Simey's judgement ...
Cliche Wall has a few good thing, although it's hard to work out what is where from the guide. I might have tried to clarify them on the crag, can't remember. Winterset and Dismember and the 13 next to them were great and it's a really nice position up there. Trouser sighs was describer by Greg at the time as like climbing up a bat's anus. You might want to give it a miss.
Parsley was was OK, although again, Lou's guide isn't totally clear. And we found the routes a little hard and exciting. You can walk into it from the top.
I'm sure i've sung the praises of 5 fingered mary before. It's a 5 star route. Take a 5 camalot.
Wurlitzer, Boomer, Squeaker, amazing lace (not the direct version which is desperate and unprotected), Goodbye to all that, Bootleg or Bitorrent (they are variant starts to same finish). They are the only worthwhile easier routes up there, Hassan is desperate and hard to protect, next Horizon and cream puff are manky, the 19 on the far left is poorly protected and mossy and Frontispiece is hard to get to the start of and not that worth it, having only a few moves low down. I quite like Dead End, Shattered and Delicacy although Douglas thinks they are mank. Glass Goblin is definitely mank. Hard ears and surrounding stuff. Wuss wall and coyote wall were ok. Of course, not as inspiring and descript as garden wall ... I am realising I could go on for hours about no star routes worth climbing at Araps. In general, most stuff at Araps is surprisingly good. No star routes that would be multiple stars at many other crags. We are spoilt around here.