I bought a "classic climbs" guidebook by the Remy brothers called Dreams of Switzerland - it is multi-language, inc English. It lists about 40 - 50 climbs in the alpine areas of central switzerland, like the Grimsel, Furka, Susten and Neufenen passes. All mulitpitch, semi-sport/trad. A pretty nice book, available to buy from Book Depository.
In August, all these areas are accessible in Summer conditions, mostly without glacier gear. Routes are all easier (Plaisir) and vary from 5 - 27 pitches! I've great things about the Goshenen Alp and Salbitschijen.
Unfortunately my October trip was too snowy for the above areas so I went south to Ticino, which the Plaisir Sud book is great for. There are heaps of MP sports, mostly slabby on Gneiss, up to 800m long, take a spare pair of calf muscles. There is some granite up higher, like Pic del Prevat, if it's too hot in the valley areas.
There's a chance I'll over that way next summer too... |