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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Buffalo - Angels substitute? 9-Nov-2006 At 10:27:57 AM ardnut

Message

Nothing like being on a route for the whole day and getting some real air under your heels!...
Try "Lord of the flies", I did it in winter and had a blast. Whats better, climb something all free but
thrutchy at 21 or aid some A1 bolt ladders and a roof and the rest of the route goes at 20. Heaps of
exposure all the way, trick little belay stances, great crack climbing! also, check out my topo in the new
buffalo guide - left (south) of "angels" are some long routes that are link ups, one starts up "Devilled
Cream" or "Commader Cody"(21,a1), has a new direct second pitch and a whole bunch of new pitches
finishing up 'home james' at about 21, and Wild Blue Yonder links to Vortex and then Bannana Blase for
a good multipitch *** extravaganza at 18. Then there is the top half of 'Path of Genghis' starts form a long
way down the sewer wall track at pitch 5 and finishes up Beowolf for a 5 pitch 20. (or do the whole route
at 23), thats your best 'angels' substitute really.