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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Ice Conditions 2016: Buller, Blue Lake et al. 9-Aug-2016 At 9:46:45 PM Damien Gildea

Message

On 9/08/2016 OzMamba wrote:
>...Can anyone offer advice on acceasing the lip
>of the climb for top rope anchor? I'm assuming a combination of screws
>and v threads? If too soft for screws I'd assume its too soft to climb
>safely...

You mean the climb shown in Allie's pics? You can walk up around the left side to get on top fairly easily (with care). As for anchors, sometimes there is snow but no ice, so screws are no good. If there is enough snow and it is frozen hard, stakes/pickets can be used. If it's too soft for either, the ice might still be OK to climb, but you will need rock anchors and (very) long slings as, if memory serves me, the better rock anchors are a bit back from the lip.

I skiied up Kozi on Sunday and looked across to Blue Lake. It's quite snowy across the high tops, thin low down, and I heard the ice was only so-so. It hasn't been super cold this winter and recent snow has banked-out the base of what ice was there.