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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Dreamtime Wall PDF guide update now available 2-May-2016 At 2:06:35 PM (removed)

Message

On 2/05/2016 Dave_S wrote:
>I don't think Joe checks Chockstone all that often, but I can probably
>answer your questions:
>
>1) "Affogato", grade 22. Was just put up by Joe last weekend.
** Looks quite good actually

>2) Nice work. I haven't climbed that one yet, but I believe the route
>was shortened by adding an extra bolt with rappel ring next to what was
>the previously the last or second last bolt, so climbers can lower off
>without having to go through the seriously loose stuff where the climb
>originally began moving right. Were you finding loose stuff below this
>anchor, or up in the original finish?
** Left of the block I reckon you were lowering off. 3 massive chunks, probably 100-200 kilograms worth, and that bit at least is now "safe" (relatively). There is a much smaller death block just under the roof with a chalk cross that would definitely kill anyone it hit. Other than that, I had no (safety) issues going to the top.

>3) I'll pass that comment on so it can be mentioned in the next edition
>of the guide.
* Good. It's frankly irresponsible (imho)

>4) It's never been climbed, but I actually went and checked this out last
>weekend. It's choss. As impressive as it looks from a distance, the vast
>majority of it seemed to be far too loose to be climbable. Fantastic vantage
>point for photos of the main Dreamtime wall though.
* Shame ... even the undercut stuff on the left ?

Thanks again for your collective work in the area.