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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Eastern	Cathedral Range	North Jawbone	(General)	[ Cathedral Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Access to South Jawbone/BHP 30-Nov-2015 At 11:41:23 AM JohnK

Message

Well spent the day at South Jawbones yesterday. Never been there before. As per Glenn's guidebook which says that the cliff is just as long as North Jawbones and it's a bit steeper, and in fact in my mind it also felt like it had even better friction that N.Jawbones BUT also softer looking/feeling sandstone which in places means some of the holds do break off.

The walk in to the Farmyard is good as Parks has put a huge number of stone steps all the way up the steep parts and you don't have to scramble/slide like you do once you leave the track like at N.Jawbones. From the farmyard the track to the summit is also very good and generally flat. From the saddle above the Farmyard however, as others have said, there is no decent track any more and once you get 3/4 of the way down the decent gully area you are in lush prickle bush forest territory which is way worse than at North Jawbones. The soil is also very loose and fragile. If you are still keen to continue, veering right towards the cliff (facing down) where Larger than Last Time (12) and How Much Can a Koala Bare (17) and then scrambling (carefully) down can avoid the worst of the prickle bush nightmare that is located if you keep going the way the current guide book describes it.

Access to Blue Haze is actually not too bad, although there is no real track anymore, to get to the the base of the cliff you don't have too many prickle bushes and it's a short decent. False Teeth (16) now has an extra BR on it as well which is in the updates on OSP to the guidebook.

This cliff seriously needs a couple of rap stations on it like North Jawbones. I'd be happy to help put them up with anyone that has a drill and the bits to do it - just PM me. I would also say there is lots of potential for some new bolted climbs on the cliff on walls which are completely unprotected. Otherwise, as other have say, take your chances and rap in and clean on the way out. Otherwise make sure you take a machete, thick clothing, gloves and a face mask with you and start chopping as you walk in!!! (yes I'm not kidding)

John K.