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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest (General) (General) (General)  

Topic Date User
Beta on 1-May-2015 At 12:47:25 PM tskinner
On 30/04/2015 harold wrote:
>I emailed Steve for info on this route a few years back and he kindly
>gave me the description below. Nice well protected slab route mostly on
>stainless glue in bolts. Just need a bunch of hangers and a few small/medium
>cams and wires. You will easily see the line of bolts not far from the
>main abseil access. Probably a good escape option if you back off one
>of the older scary, runout routes. I'll try and get around to adding this
>to the crag sometime, I haven't seen it in a guide.
>" North West Victoria Guide
>Red Rock
>1000 Watts 165mt Grade 15
>Our intent was a safe and well protected and hopefully one available to
>the masses. I think we succeeded.
>Start 15mt down below the Endless Summer - Yasser block and just past
>a jumble of boulders.
>1. 40m. (13)
>Testing moves up to a bolt at 6mt. Follow a seam heading left and past
>a cam placement. Move up left past a second bolt to the right and on to
>2 bomber cam placements in a seam back to you left. Straight up past 2
>more bolts to a couple of thin moves below the belay (DFH) on a small headwall.
>2. 45m (14)
>Head out right and up then straight up past 4 more bolts. From the 4th
>bolt you can continue straight up past a 5th bolt or move left to a series
>of "brilliant" pockets and a bolt to the belay (DFH)
>3. 45m (15)
>Yet another "brilliant" pitch. From the belay head straight up past 6
>more bolts. (A small cam can be found between the 2nd and the 3rd bolt
>if required) The last part of this pitch has some "brilliant" friction
>climbing if you stay in the line of bolts. Continue up to where the angle
>eases and belay at the DFH
>4. 35m (15)
>Easily up to the overlap on natural gear and to a bolt above on the right
>hand end. Step up and make thin moves to more natural gear and continue
>up to belay at the abseil boulder.
>And the name!! Well we thought the climb was "Brilliant"
>John Morris, Chris Watson, Steve Morris. 10.2.08.

I am the editor of Argus (VCC montly newsletter) which has a New Routes & Beta section. This was emailed to me last week and will be included in the next issue also.

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