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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	Bushranger Bluff	(General)	Back Wall	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

1-May-2015 At 7:53:30 AM Wendy

Message

I just read the description in the guide for the first time, and they are on drugs. I would have said reachy with spaced gear and not obvious where to climb. I would stick with the really easy routes at Bushranger's and do some quality 13s elsewhere.

There have been some enthusiastic suggestions so far about what to climb when you say you have done 1 16 so far ...

I would suggest consolidating skills, familiarising with the rock and building confidence on a few awesome easy things like Arachnus, Dribble, Eskimo Nell. I'm not a massive fan of Bard, I think these routes are much better.Then Hell for Leather is possibly the friendliest 13 at the Mt. Horn Piece is great, exiting to the left rather than up the final nose is easier and less terrifying. Muldoon is a little committing out of the cave, make sure about your gear before you go for it. It's good fun. 1st pitch of Libretto is great at 14, you can finish up d major. Tremulo is way more friendly than Toccata, which is hard slippery and old fashioned. I love it, but I would'tn suggest it as an early 15! Touchstone (i just rap to the ledge below the corner, first bit is not that great and easy to hit the ground on). Agent Orange is great. The first pitch of Kaiser sucks with a stupid dog leg out left and right to avoid the grade 18 direct. I'd just go up the original Resignation. Which is fantastic but very exciting and pumpy for it's grade.

Lamplighter is very good, but the second pitch is long, technical and exposed and not always obvious where to go if you are new to route finding. The 3rd pitch is entertaining thrutchiness that may be unfamiliar to you. A big cam makes it feel saner. Remember there is a wall behind you and you are not trying to do grade 20 slab moves out there.