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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Topic Date User
Wild Gravity : Barrenjoey 26-Feb-2015 At 3:15:22 PM tnd
Message
CoD trends leftwards and ends on a ledge, a couple of metres wide and a metre deep. At the back of the ledge, at eye height, is a double ring rap station/anchor. This can be used to lower off and place draws on one of the three face routes to the left of CoD, by shuffling left and right as necessary as one lowers down the face.

On-sighting those three very thin routes, placing bolt plates and draws on lead, is still a pretty tough task. The bolts don't make them an easy ride, they just save your ankles if you fall.

The right variant finish, which goes higher than the ledge mentioned above, is the top half of Enterprise (18). E starts about a metre right of the bottom of the CoD bum crack. Climbed as a route in itself, it has four bolt runners, two or three in the bottom half and one or two in the top half - four altogether anyway. Yes, the top half could be done with just the cams, but as I said, someone had bashed in three carrots by the time I ever saw it, and I left it with at least one less.

M9, why don't you take a ride up there and form an opinion on what you see, not what you have heard or what you remember. This is a crag that numerous people enjoy in its present form.

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