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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Wild Gravity : Barrenjoey 26-Feb-2015 At 11:45:13 AM tnd

Message

M9, regarding CoD, I meant one can climb that as an easy option, then rap down from its anchors to pre-place gear on the grade 18 face climbs below it.

The right trending 18 finish to CoD is a case in point. It had three carrots, which by relocating I reduced to two, as there are also two cam placements in horizontals.

Of course, I can only attest to the crag as having the bolts it had when I first went there in the early 90's. So e.g. you may think that the two cam placements above are enough and that there shouldn't be any bolts. Personal opinion, I guess. A friend brought Henry Barber up there for a climb on his visit in 2008, and he thought that Mescalito (19) didn't need its two carrots. But we aren't all tough enough to climb in a swami belt and a few pieces of passive pro!

However, I don't think that anyone could consider BJ to be overbolted to the extent of a lot of "sport" crags. It certainly still has plenty of pure trad routes with quite testing moves for their grades (e.g. Pledge a Legend, Abseil Wall).