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Crag & Route Beta

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Candlestick route info 16-Feb-2015 At 5:21:43 PM gfdonc

Message

(& bump) We did the Candlestick last Friday, a very satisfying day out.

Info FYI:
1. The obvious way to do this route is to rap down from the anchors level with the top of the Totem Pole onto a good ledge, swim and tyrolean across to a small ledge diagonally across and left of you, then up the corners above.
2. Done this way we thought the pitches were 18, 17ish, 16, 14ish and generally well protected. I understand the original route starts somewhere further around left, and is easier.
3. There are two bolts with shackles at the bottom of the abseil, both stainless. One is a bit undersized, but they both looked OK.
4. There are two bolts with FHs on the ledge on the other side. These are visible from above when you're scoping the route from the mainland.
5. We rapped on a 70m, and there was plenty of rope in the water when I got to the bottom of the abseil. I understand a 60m is enough, but can't confirm.
6. There were two fixed wires in the first pitch. I clipped both of them, they looked OK, and are still there.
7. At the start of the 3rd pitch you go a little left up a face/corner/crack, which means your trailing line (abseil rope) now goes around the buttress/arete to the right and you might think could get stuck. It all worked out OK for us, but there's a little undercut section in the arete that the rope could catch underneath, fairly low down. If you're in a party of 2, try to flick the rope up the arete before you take off. Larger parties can send the trail line up with the 2nd person then make sure it stays free of this obstacle.
8. The rap at the very top was off slings. We added a fresh one, but some rings would be a better option if anyone is prepared to take a drill. Also left a biner to be sure.
9. The tyrolean to get back across is about 40m and is sensational. Bear in mind you'll need at least 2 ropes (some sources mention this, some don't).
10. We also used a rope to belay each person downwards as the anchors on the mainland are about 15m lower than those on the Candlestick, so the first 15-20m of the tyro are more an abseil than a tyrolean. That meant we needed 4 ropes if you think it through, which luckily we had.
11. Optionally you can rap back down to the ledge at the end of the 2nd pitch which is about level with the mainland's anchors and would be a shorter distance across. It might be less than 30m, but I can't be sure, and wouldn't rely on it. There are some slings and biners left there to set up your tyrolean, but I can't vouch for them.
12. There are two rusty steel biners at the higher tyro point. We didn't trust them, so left two old(er) aluminium screwgates there.

TR to follow ..