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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Old stuck nut on Tierry le Fronde, Frenchmans cap 27-Jan-2015 At 9:09:59 PM PGS

Message

On 25/01/2015 dtb wrote:
>Hi all,
>Just wondering if anyone knows any details about an old stuck nut on the
>third pitch of Tierry Le Fronde down on Frenchmans cap??
>
>Its not the 3rd pitch proper but the crack to the right of the original
>route. I got lost (surprise, surprise!) and ended up stringing 2 and 3
>together, took the wrong crack and found myself under a horrible overhang
>with no feet and 1 good hold with nothing above it I could find. Clipped
>to the now rusty nut wire and a so-so .3 cam I gave it a few attempts before
>backing off and moving back down and over to the original route (found
>an old piton which resembled a Cadbury Flake chocolate bar)
>
>The nut was above the roof in a vertical crack and stuck for all time,
>just wondering if anyone has any details on this piece?
>
>If that nut could talk I'd say it has a pretty good story to tell!
>

Pretty sure I did exactly the same thing as you in 2002 and have a faint memory of that nut back then.
Great climb that one. straightforward day out compared to the other stuff.