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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Northwest	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Camels Hump New Easy Sport Routes 19-Jan-2015 At 9:40:46 PM Mark R

Message

So:

Back Wall:

Would probably be the best midteen crag near Melbourne.

North facing 15-20m wall below rib that heads off East from Lookout. Well shaded by trees. Can be accessed from above (scramble down to chain at top of cliff, there are rings to avoid scramble but hard to find). Best access approx 200m past grey arete, limbo, into oblivion etc via vague trail to base of wall. Routes set for easy leads... anchors are generally not safe for access from above with exception of FHs/chain above Skippy. Refer old NW guide for details re other climbs.

L) wall - 2 short sand bag 18s and one short super soft 24 (barely 23).
L) side of wall the climb above the bollard is OK but needs rebolt (and if not retroed will be essentially solo)

Remaining routes described relative to the 2 major R) trenches

Summer Breeze 15m 15
Left most line of 4FHs to crack (mid/large wires) and up right to shared double U anchor.
FA MRewi 2007 (I replaced 2 old low bolts that really did lead no where)

Unknown 15m 15
1m R) of SB. Direct start past 4 or 5 FHs to above anchor. Good. Predates my time here.

Skippy 15m 14
Could be the trench (which has been climbed but is an absolute deep mossy horror show). More likely given the old bolts it climbed 1m right all the way. Now retroed by one who will remain un-named with 2RB and 3FH to gain the original FH/chain anchor atop the cliff. Rebolted 2014

Brian Boru 15m 15
The old bolt has been replaced. Run out although one of the bolts on S can be reached. Take some wires/cams but not much fits. Trend R) at top to DRB anchor. Rebolted 2014

Undertow 15m 16/7
Undercut start on arete past 3 or 4 FH to DRB anchor as for BB. Mark Rewi 2014

Tie the Knot 18m 12
Named after an incident involving 2 hapless bumblies who tried to get each other killed at Omega Block. Start 2m R) of the low angle arete past 2 bolts until able to step L) across gully onto balancy wall. 5? bolts in all to DRB anchor. FA Phil Aarons 2013/4

Anthony's Arete 20m 9
Start as for TTK or 2m left and trundle up the ridge past 4 or 5 bolts and optional trad up high to gain DRB anchor on OFTM. FA Liam Aarons 2013/4

One for the Masses 20m 14
Named during my "I'm a wanker phase". Nice climbing past 4 or 5 FH to DRB anchor. Mark Rewi 2007

There are a couple of obvious lines to tidy up further along. Dont hold back!