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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where Angels Fear to Tread - bloody epic 6-Jan-2015 At 12:52:24 PM shiltz

Message

I did WAFTT last year for the first time. Did the original start which was stiff for 17 and has a bush in the way about 10m up - luckily that wasn't my lead. I thought the crux was where the crack thins right out after you transition from one hand crack to another and just before a big ledge. It was my second lead (pitch 4) but I think we might have combined some pitches so could be P5 in the route description. The fridge hugging came after that and was a bit awkward but not all that hard.
We didn't tape up, wore normal rock shoes and swung leads. Hands and ankles got a few minor scratches but nothing unusual for 6 or 7 pitches of climbing. One way to reduce the carnage is to take advantage of the fact it is less than vertical and heel toe the offwidth sections rather than jamming your whole leg in. The scramble off into Burston's was a bit messy, it might have helped to check it out in advance but then again I'm not sure the finish off the route would have been obvious from above.
We got started straight after breakfast and topped out in time for a late lunch - about 4-5 hours all up I think.
So I'm putting in a vote for this route as a fun outing though I can see how it could easily become a bloody epic.