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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo Eurobin Falls (General) (General) [ Eurobin Falls Guide ] 

Topic Date User
rap station at top of eurobin falls? 18-Dec-2014 At 4:57:13 PM shiltz
On 18/12/2014 tradgic wrote:
>Ok folks. 3 summers ago we put a rap station on the overlap immediately
>above the old rusty one indicated in Blue on Wills diagram.
Yep, these must be the ones we used to belay at the top of our P2 and then to descend. Thanks for putting them in!

>There is a new variant finish to llafnwod that heads right off the belay indicated
>in green and leads directly to the belay in blue.. Probably 14ish, 3bolts
>50m. When its dry its sublime, when its wet its just slime.
We didn't see these bolts on the way up or on the way down. M9 led the second pitch (from the green circle to the blue circle) without any runners.

>Then there is a pitch that heads straight above the new belay and up to the anchors
>in red.
For our P3 I led straight up from the blue circle belay but only as far as the next break, at the base of the final corner. There were no runners on this pitch either, none that I found anyway. It was a hard start from the belay requiring some "team tactics". So I kept P3 short so that rope stretch wouldn't cause M9 to hit the slab below if he fell on the initial moves. I'm glad I didn't press on as I would have run out of rope mid-way up the final corner anyway.
P4 was really nice the way M9 lead it, although the tree we had to climb through towards the top made it slightly less pleasant than it could have been.

>Geoff Gledhill showed me the way down from the top and as I indicated
>it the guide its in the corner on the left side beneath the Headwall /Block
Do you mean the left side of the red circle? How did you get to there from the top? Or did I misunderstand?

>We really should have gotten in and replaced them too but the wall
>was baking hot by 10am and we bailed out.
I imagine that wall would be truly awful on a hot day. Better to just go for a swim in the creek.

>From the blue rap we went to
>the top anchors of under glass in the middle of the wall, although the
>new rap on top P1 of llafnwod are a way better bet. If I get back up there
>I'll do the top belay too.
>Anyone know what happened to the first pitches of the routes on Mackeys
>Lookout. It would appear that over winter the whole 'stepped overhang'
>thing has exfoliated in a very big way!
>Is it a new route if you are climbing brand new features where a route
>previously existed on rock that has now disappeared?

There are 18 replies to this topic.


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