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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Eurobin Falls	(General)	(General)	[ Eurobin Falls Guide ]

Topic Date User

rap station at top of eurobin falls? 18-Dec-2014 At 2:42:04 PM tradgic

Message

Ok folks. 3 summers ago we put a rap station on the overlap immediately above the old rusty one indicated in Blue on Wills diagram. There is a new variant finish to llafnwod that heads right off the belay indicated in green and leads directly to the belay in blue.. Probably 14ish, 3bolts 50m. When its dry its sublime, when its wet its just slime. Then there is a pitch that heads straight above the new belay and up to the anchors in red. Geoff Gledhill showed me the way down from the top and as I indicated it the guide its in the corner on the left side beneath the Headwall /Block thing. We really should have gotten in and replaced them too but the wall was baking hot by 10am and we bailed out. From the blue rap we went to the top anchors of under glass in the middle of the wall, although the new rap on top P1 of llafnwod are a way better bet. If I get back up there I'll do the top belay too.

Anyone know what happened to the first pitches of the routes on Mackeys Lookout. It would appear that over winter the whole 'stepped overhang' thing has exfoliated in a very big way!

Is it a new route if you are climbing brand new features where a route previously existed on rock that has now disappeared?