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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Similar routes to BBB? 11-Dec-2014 At 3:01:34 PM Estey
On 11/12/2014 Drake wrote:
>>The two most popular routes on Lower Baldy are probably No Complications
>and Secret Swinger. Both are a bit tough for their advertised grades because
>the ground below them has eroded. Each has a hard start consisting of a
>jump to a giant flexing choss-jug and heel-hooking wrestling match, the
>difficulty of which is disproportionate to the rest of the climb.
>This most certainly does not describe the start to Secret Swinger. Yes
>the start is tough for 17, but it's a delicate thin start in a fingercrack,
>not a wild swing to loose jugs. Yes portions of SS are chossy, but I was
>able to find good protection just before and after each of these sections.
>It's sandstone in the wolgan after all- what do you expect?

I'm guessing the route with the jump to the jug and heel-hook Nick refers to is actually Room to Move, the third trade 16 on Old Baldy Lower.

I have to agree with Nick and Simey. I found the 2nd pitch of Secret Swinger unnerving, particularly the bit where you climb out of the choss cave. My instincts told me this bit wasn't really attached to the rest of the cliff, a feeling not helped by the fact that half the route next door has actually fallen down. Fun climbing but take care.

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