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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	North Side	North Wall	[ Gorge Guide ]

Topic Date User

Ozy original beta 19-Nov-2014 At 8:31:12 AM Superstu

Message

Thanks everyone for the beta. If I manage to get down there and onto this route this summer I'll have to post a TR.

I was mostly interested in what is 'standard practice' for cleaning an aid traverse when the leader does some backcleaning along the way, and it sounds like the leader needs to leave enough gear around for the seconder to fill in the gaps as needed and aid across too.

En had a bit of a struggle following the Kor roof on Washington's Column last month and I think it was because of my freakish arm span and some back cleaning ~ what I should have done is left enough gear around so she could cam-jug across and get the weight off the line. Or, more efficiently, make sure she gets the lead of the traverse pitches!

Brendon your technique of cam-jugging with no backup pieces sounds horrifying!!