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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Strangeness and Charm Video TR 3-Nov-2014 At 10:29:25 PM duploboy

Message

My first time there just last Sunday.
Was also confused by the smorgasboard of bolts. All the shiny ones on pitch one had been chopped (and were completely unnecessary).

On the pitch 2 traverse they seemed mostly to REPLACE older ones. The Mike-Law Smith guide doesn't mention what was there, however.

The guide talks about 2 bolts on pitch three while now there are 3. I'm not complaining too much, because I'm a pussy but the first of these were next to some only *slightly* flared pockets that *should* take small cams. Is that how the FA was done?

And on pitch three there was a new hanger next to an old one, and another carrot in the middle of it all. Is the intention to remove the older ones to avoid a
carrot patch?' Again, I clipped everything I could, but I felt cheap afterwards. It seems a bit jarring with the scale and reputation of the place. At the same time I'm glad I got to be up there for some stellar climbing.

Ethical minefield. As you can see I don't judge strongly but I'm curious as to the history behind the original bolting, additional bolting and chopping.