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Crag & Route Beta

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How starry do people like their guidebooks? 1-Nov-2014 At 8:11:58 AM Wendy

Message

On 1/11/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 30/10/2014 Wendy wrote:
>>Your percentage thing is all a bit wierd, Damo. What do you do when you
>>get to 20% 1 star routes and start arguing over which piece of mank gets
>>the last few stars because you want to make 30%???? If the routes are
>good,
>>give them a star (or 2 or 3 as appropriate).
>
>It's not weird at all. Simey and Rob (pt perp) are tight with their stars,
>Neil and Simon Carter are a bit more liberal, the guy who did the Frog
>guide threw confetti around like he was at a wedding. They've all made
>conscious or unconscious decisions about what a star is worth (and its
>worth different things in different books).

It's weird because it's setting a quota that things won't necessarily fit. You aren't conveniently going to find 50% of the routes in the book are really worth 1 star, so you start making up which is the better of the not very good to get a star. What is so wrong with considering each route on it's individual merit?

I do have a problem with this crag relative star system. Basically, if a crag is shît, you don't give 3 stars to the best route there because it's still shît. It's like when someone posted that excerpt from the Crag of all the 3 star routes over 28 and you rather laughably have routes in the Hole (and I will continue to disagree with Stugang that his baby in that disgusting, manky manufactured crag could possibly be 3 star even if I can't climb it!) and Kangaroo Point on it . Whilst I agree you can't just not give any indication of quality because something doesn't compare to the best of the best, the best routes at a mediocre crag aren't really 3 star either. 3 stars should at least be the best routes in the guidebook, and if the whole guide covers mediocre rubbish, maybe there shouldn't be any. What you end up doing is creating a disguised too bloody many stars system, where 3 stars at a great crag is really 17 whilst 3 stars at another is really only 0.5.

How about crappy crags get a yawn symbol to suggest that seeing you've bothered to get there, you may as well stay awake long enough to climb these ones?