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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Classic 'no-star' routes at Point Perp 30-Oct-2014 At 11:18:38 AM uwhp510

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I'm going to put in a plug for the no-star approach of the old guide.

Years ago I was down at the point with my mate Fraser, with whom climbing trips always seemed to get a bit loose... Anyways, he picked out Heavy Weather, somewhere a little bit north of the main part of Windjammer wall, as being worthy of our attention. In retrospect I have no idea what aspect of it caught his attention. I hadn't heard of if, and it had just as many stars as every other route in the guide book (i.e. none) so I thought "Why not eh?"

It was a two pitch route, on the upper cliff, with a tricky undercut start, leading to a horrendous, rusty carrot which stuck out 2 inches. There was no other gear on the pitch, but it was pretty short. The belay consisted of some very small, loose, slung blocks. Fraser said not to fall off.

The second pitch involved a long traverse right with easy climbing but not gear. Then there was some easy up climbing, still with no gear. Then there was a couple of tricky moves, still with no gear, but THEN (about 8m up and right of the "belay") there was gear (and sandy hand jams).

I'm probably not really selling this route. I wasn't having a great time at the time, but in hindsight it was really fun (type two fun obviously) and was probably one of the most memorable routes at the Point for me. If the guide had any of the following symbols; stars, cobwebs, little piles of shit, then I probably wouldn't have ever done it, and I would have been all the poorer for it.