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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Classic 'no-star' routes at Point Perp 28-Oct-2014 At 4:19:56 PM nmonteith
On 28/10/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>I don't see how a
>bolted belay on a ledge fixes the potential deck-out?

My issue with rap rope belays is the rope stretch factor. Its the same phenomenon that happens when you are top-roping. You don't want to fall off in the first few metres as the rope stretch means you will deck hard, and pull your belayer off the ledge as well. A decent bolt belay positioned at head height means the belay bolt protects the first moves and the climber won't fall onto the belayer directly. It also means the rap rope can be tied off loosely and out of the way. Falling onto a fixed rope is a recipe for rope burn.

> Can't you rap down
>to the side of the route?

I only found one bolt at the top - and backed it up with some rusty tiny exposed dynabolt left over from ye olde navy days. So not a lot of options for where to rap in.

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