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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Classic 'no-star' routes at Point Perp 28-Oct-2014 At 2:45:21 PM nmonteith
On 28/10/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 28/10/2014 nmonteith wrote:
>>If I get
>>keen I'll add a bolt anchor next time I'm at the Point.
>Why? You have to rap in to get to the route, the rap rope is as good an
>anchor as your new bolt belay will be. This isn't a safety issue, it isn't
>even a convenience issue. Think outside the box a bit mate.

Have you done the route? It is effectively a hanging belay (a tiny ledge) and the first bolt is way up - about 5m above the ledge on somewhat choss rock. So if you fall off you will take a factor 2 fall onto the rap rope - which has stretch and a ledge. A really shitty outcome. It also means the annoying rap rope sits over the climb which i really hate. I much prefer to have someone pull it up or throw it down so I don't have a cheat option for easy escape. Almost every other route in the area has bolted anchors - so why not this one? The route is a sport route - it's not like they were making some ethical decision. It was just lazy new routing.

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